The Platinum Guide

Why Platinum?

Platinum is the rarest of the four metals we work in, the purest as it is worn, and the only one that stays white without help. Here is what that actually means when you are choosing a ring.

How pure is platinum jewellery?

Fine platinum jewellery is 950 platinum — 95% pure. Only 5% of the piece is alloy. For comparison, 18K gold is 75% pure and 22K gold is 91.6% pure. Platinum is the highest-purity metal in ordinary fine-jewellery use.

Is platinum rarer than gold?

Yes — roughly thirty times less platinum is mined each year than gold. All the platinum ever mined would fill a room; the gold equivalent would fill a building.

A rough platinum nugget beside a finished polished platinum band.

Is platinum better than white gold?

They are different metals that happen to look similar. White gold is yellow gold alloyed white and then plated with rhodium — the brightness you see is the plating, and plating wears. Platinum is white all the way through.

 Platinum18K White Gold
Purity95%75%
ColourNaturally whiteRhodium-plated
Re-platingNeverEvery 2–3 years
Density21.4 g/cm³15.6 g/cm³
NickelNoneOften present
Wear behaviourDisplaces into a patinaAbrades away
Cost of the same ringHigherLower

Choose platinum if…

You want the setting to hold a stone for decades without thinning, you react to nickel, or you would rather not return the ring for re-plating.

Choose white gold if…

You want the brightest possible white on the day, at a lower price, and you do not mind a re-plate every few years as part of normal upkeep.

Does platinum scratch?

It does — but it displaces rather than loses metal. A scratch pushes metal aside into a soft patina instead of wearing it away. A platinum band keeps essentially its full weight after decades of wear. Gold, by contrast, sheds metal as it abrades.

Why does platinum cost more than gold?

Purity and density. The same ring is 95% precious metal instead of 75%, and platinum is about 40% heavier by volume — so it takes noticeably more precious metal to make. You are paying for metal, not for a mark-up on the name.

Is platinum hypoallergenic?

Yes. At 95% purity there is very little alloy in the piece, and platinum carries no nickel — which is the usual cause of a reaction to white gold.

How should platinum be cared for?

Warm water, mild soap, a soft brush. Nothing else is required. The patina that develops is the metal's own finish; if you prefer the original polish, any jeweller can restore it in minutes without removing meaningful metal.


See it in the metal

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